Derricks X getting Portals.......

Dayum!

HOLY SHEEP SH*T CHONG!!! COOL!!!!

go for it

Oh and I haven't decided if I'll either keep the stock drum brakes or do discs. If I keep the drum I have to have custom rims made for there bolt pattern. I go with discs and it can have either 8 or 6 lug pattern.(I can't remember which) Sounds like an easy choice huh?? Its another $650 per axle to have them put discs on it and I have to supply the discs and calipers.

And I'll hopefully be running anything from 42s to 46s.

Ok...here is my input.

As strange as it sounds, the problem with portals is the fact that they are portals. Totally cool for ground clearance and gear reduction. Mog 404s are very beefy as well. Can't deny the coolness factor either.

That said, plan on ending up where I am going or start doing this now. Tube frame buggy with Explorer/Ranger panels on it.

Since the centerline of the axle tube will be the same as if you were running a normal axle, your clearances under the motor are going to be the same. The stock crossmember can be cut, but it still sucks. This means you have to run more lift to merely clear the axle around the frame (even on a first gen).

The centerline of the wheel on a portal axle is obviously lower. This means that in addition to running more lift in the front to clear the axle, you get the added height of the portal, and then the 42-46" tire. Up front you are going to be HUGE! The rear isn't a problem because you mentioned you will be tubing it out.

My best advice is to build a tube frame around the axles in order to keep the thing as low as possible, or to cut the frame off starting at the firewall and tube the front out to match the rear.

If you are build 3 or 4-links, also read up about the differences in suspension design between the two different axle styles. They are different and what works on one won't neccesarily work on the other.

Damn it....I keep forgetting stuff.:frustrate

For suspension set-up I choose the easy way over going all out. I'm doing the same front and rear. 4-links with normal coils. Not coil-overs. Daniel(from killeraxles) talked me out of doing coil-overs because of simplicaty of doing normal coils.

I'll have my buddies Jeff, TJ, and Kent(NOTAJP) helping me with all of this. Or anyone else that wants to join in on the fun. I have spare bedrooms and always free beer and burgers.

Ok Cory....I was typeing mine when you posted yours.

I was just thinkin that. Doing the same for the front as I'm doing the rear. Tubing it out.

I'm not keep the portals in the stock axle locations. I'm moving everything out. As far forward as possible and as far backwards as possible.

I'm going to subscribe to this thread because I plan on helping Derrick with this project.

I don't have any bright ideas or words of great wisdom as of yet, or maybe never (not that smart) . I'll PM you some ideas later on...

Cory,
I like your points on the portals. I've read quite a bit after Derrick and I first talked about this. I think most of the problems will be resolved if he does go with the GM disc brakes. That also brings standard 8 lug wheels.

Originally posted by NOTAJP
I think most of the problems will be resolved if he does go with the GM disc brakes. That also brings standard 8 lug wheels.

Click to expand...

Trust me. Brakes are the least of the problems.

Derrick, I would also not suggest moving the front axle as far forward and the rear as far back as possible. You have a 4-door which means your wheelbase is already at 111".

Anything more than 115" is pretty much too long for any real trail action. I know from experience. When I was building mine, I did the same thing you did. I ended up at 122". I couldn't turn to save my life and on tight trails (even with 38x14.5s) I was making a lot of multi-point turns.

If I were in your shoes, I'd chop the rear up and bring the rear axle inwards until you are less that 110". I'm now at around 105" and am really liking it.

Hmmmm coolness factor of mog's

Yep they are cool, pictured above is a mog diff with 52" michelin's... yes thats a 5gal bucket under it

I agree with Cory, let's shorten this thing up. Esp if you're going to tube the rear anyway. Do you plan on keeping the rear doors?

P.S. Color isn't going to matter after this!

Well you both have a good idea but I like my wheel base. It works for me for where I wheel most. I might be an inch shorter or two but not much change in wheel base. I didn't mean I was really moving everything out but more as not adding anything in front or rear of the tires.

You guys are keeping me thinkin...I had this all figured out before I actually said something.

Its still going to be green mister!!

You guys are keeping me up late...need coffee.

Keep the ideas coming guys....

What do you plan on running for drivetrain?

The guy from killeraxles.com said my stock stuff would work fine with running 42s but I told him I'm still wanting a Atlas t-case. He wasn't really sure what to say about that. A matter of fact I can't even remember what he said.

Cory, does Atlas have a solution for the centered diffs on the 404s?

Save yourself the headache .

of steering and do the full hydro. I beleive in the long run you will come out cheaper. Others correct me if i,m wrong. And the logistics of running hydraulic line verses draglink and such has got to be much easier. Good luck

I knew

It would only be a matter of time.

Oh hydro all the way!!!

Yeah Cory can you help me out there?? He never said anything about that.

Obviously you never plan to be somewhat street legal. The differences in full hydro and dydro assist is the return to center and legalities. A full hydro is not street legal.